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Altogether over the year, we went through Butte twice and
Anaconda once. Butte was a story unto itself, not because it
was a glory hole for flowers, but because it sat smack on
top of one of the world's largest open pit glory holes for
ore.
When the
founding father's first arrived on the scene, the landscape
around Butte was nothing special, just the low rolling type
of hills and semi plains mix which was common throughout the
area just east of the Rockies.
The only
exception was a six hundred foot high ant hill sitting right
in the middle of nowhere all by itself, sticking up like a
sore thumb. Hence the name Butte. The giant open pit ore
body that originally started the whole thing off, was way
over there. The ant hill was way over here and never the
twain would meet.
Or so
apparently went the theory because they built the town right
on top of the ant hill, probably for the spectacular view.
Eventually covering the entire hill like a blanket over a
Mayan mound.
Then
came the good news and the bad news. The good news aws that
the ore body was way bigger than original suspected. The bad
news was that the direction of the new ore was right through
the ant hill.
Why on
earth nobody thought of drilling in advance to make sure,
who can say. Either no one had, or the results got lost
because the town was put on top of the hill and the hill
ended up dead center on top of the progressing ore body.
More likely, the hill was so far away from the original ore
body that nobody ever dreamed the ore body would end up
being that big.
At any
rate, the problem was therefore that either the town had to
be moved lock stock and barrel, or the mine eventually shut
down. Any fool could see what kind of a contest that was.
Money wins every time. Besides, if the mine shut down, there
would be no reason for the town. Sort of its own non
sequitur.
So the
mine got the nod and the town got the boot. Instead of just
ghost towning it to somewhere else though, the town was
being moved way over there out of harm’s way, a street at a
time as the digging entrenched into the hill a street at a
time. Already well under way for some long time when we
arrived.
The
streets were being moved day by day. The ant hill in behind
was being inexorably eaten away by the giant mining shovel,
both going on in a perfect dance of desperate engineering
syncopation. Since butte was anything but a tiny little hick
town way off in the middle of nowhere, this was anything but
a trivial little operation. Albeit way off in the middle of
nowhere.
When we
got there, a third of the hill, er town, er ant hill, was
already gone. It looked just like someone had just spaded
one big huge shovelful out of the side of an ordinary sized
ant hill in the backyard and tossed it away. You've got to
love the American industrial spirit to persevere against all
odds.
Anaconda's was a whole different story. Anaconda was at one
time, maybe still is, home of the world’s largest
freestanding smokestack.
The
stack was red brick and enormous. Talk about a finger up to
the environment. It was almost a city block square through
the base and probably a good bet to be the original
inspiration for Jack and the Beanstalk because it went way
up there.
Anaconda
was way off everybody's beaten path. The only thing to do in
Anaconda seemed to have been to work and drink, because the
only thing in town besides the five square miles of smelter
were a few houses and a lot of bars.
On the
trip through, my friends dropped me off with a full load of
flowers at one of the town's more promising strips at about
seven in the evening. The cue up was that they would pick me
up again at eleven.
The
strip looked like any residential commercial zone, with a
few storefronts and a couple of houses. But just about every
intersection had a hot spot watering hole or two. I had
finished going up one side of the street and had been coming
back down the other at about nine o'clock. I came to this
neat quaint looking little place with weathered barn siding
and a liberal festooning of wagon wheels and lanterns all
over the front.
"Ah", I
said to myself in eager anticipation, "a country western
bar". In any part of North America, the two things you could
always count on with certainty were that the sun would
always come up in the morning and that you would sell a
flower or two in a country western bar. Either something
about smelling the roses along the way, or that all the
males suddenly saw light at the end of the tunnel.
Therefore, already pumped before I even got into the place,
I burst through the door and headed boldly towards the first
table on the way to the bar to ask permission. I had already
started asking if anyone would like to buy a flower.
I stopped
in mid sentence. I had also stopped in mid stride. I had
stopped striding so fast, my right leg was still frozen
halfway up in the up cycle.
Then in
what is surely one of the most slickly choreographed
retreats in the annuls of flower selling history, I said,
"nope, guess not", and went straight back out the door in
the exact reverse order of the way I had come in. Literally
a video recording in reverse.
What had
stopped me in my tracks so suddenly was the fact I had
looked up and saw nothing but a sea of black tee shirts,
black caps, black beards, lots of tattoos, and big white
round eyes staring at me out of slack jawed blank faces like
a tabloid frozen in time. It was a goddam biker's bar.
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